Dries Van Noten isn’t the only one this season to fuse Fifties shapes with a military motif. Over at Junya Watanabe, however, that army refrain was the designer’s solo theme. His collection was a big affectionate embrace of the army-outdoorsy life, with practically the entire lineup cast in olive greens and camouflage colors. The only left-field element here: the models’ colossal flying-nun-meets-flying-saucer wigs.
Watanabe began the fall treatise on the brigade babe with impeccably tailored coats, nipped at the waist and with slightly molded hips, before taking on the skirt suit, including one alluring version with a tuft of tulle in the back. Cargo pockets were everywhere, on blazers in patchwork khaki twill and knit skirts cut in ladified silhouettes. Despite the overwhelming platoon vibe, this was a far gentler take on the trend than the one Watanabe sent out a few years ago. This season, an a cappella gospel choir provided the score, with plenty of “holy, holy, holy” and “hallelujahs” peppered throughout. Even when Watanabe turned his lens to the utilitarian part of the show — ponchos, parkas and fur-trimmed Nanook-of-the-North bomber jackets — he kept the mood mostly romantic. For instance: the ruched anorak shaped like a Dior Bar jacket, tossed over a skirt with a peek of petticoat beneath. It hit the runway as the choir began to sing “Amazing Grace.” MoniCa singh
