Top model gallery: Top 30

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4/30/11

Top 30: European Fashion Exhibitions

19th Century, Fashion & Textile Museum, London

While there are annual fashion exhibitions at the Met in New York, the US is generally behind Europe in fashion exhibition and museums. The selection here are just a small number. The majority of the leading EU nations each have a cultural foundation dedicated to the preservation of fashion and costume and display of its innovations.

Azzadine Alaia, Les années 1990-2000, Les arts décoratifs, Paris, 2011

Sonia Rykiel, Les arts décoratifs, Paris 2009

Unravel at Momu, Antwerp, 2011

4/29/11

Top 30: Owens Vs. Pugh

Rick Ownes F 2011 left Vs. Gareth Pugh F 2011 right

The open support from Owens to former intern Pugh is really great to see in an industry of cut throat competition. But even more interesting is the obvious but subtle dialogue going on between these two in cuts, accessories, headpieces, hair, make-up and shoes.

Rick Ownes S 2011 left Vs. Gareth Pugh S 2011 right

Rick Ownes F 2010 left Vs. Gareth Pugh F 2010 right

4/28/11

Top 30: Steven Meisel

Above and below, Organized Robots, 2009

Steven Meisel is the David Lynch of fashion photography. I love his unsolved mysteries.

Mis-shaped, 2005

State of Emergency, Vogue Italia, Sep 2005

Makeover Madness, Vogue Italia, July 2005

The Power of Glamour, Vogue Italia, Jan 2011

4/27/11

Top 30: Juergen Teller

I love the personality of Juergen Teller, unveiled in meeting the personality of his subjects. His real perspective is portraiture, not fashion photography. Above Kate Moss and below Dree Hemingway for W Magazine.

Above and below Moschino S 2011

Marc Jacobs S 2011

4/26/11

Top 30: Bless

I have posted about Bless before and their amazing talent at wearable objects. I love the creative headphones above. Their shows and look books feature real people wearing the clothes.

Above a page from the spring 2011 lookbook

4/25/11

Top 30: Vanessa Beecroft

Beecroft with Sudanese twins

I have long held the position that contemporary art not only serves an expression of cultural values but that some succeed because they resonate with what the public desire, like any product. Beecroft was the reason I began exploring fashion versus art when I was invited to speak about her work at the Cornell Museum. The artist achieves a formal presentation of the female body, with a cult of fashion and the turnover of styles but in more recent years she aims for global resonance.

Above collaboration with Louis Vuitton

Above VB 24 1996 and below VB 34 1998

Above VB 62 and below VB 64

4/24/11

Top 30: Viktor & Rolf

F 2010

S 2010

S 2011

2006

The talent of the costume, disguised as fashion. No limits!

4/23/11

Top 30: Colette

A version of Colette graphics designed by artists Kuntzel & Deygas.

I have posted before about how well Colette allows fashion to meet art. Sarah and her team curate the best Parisien chic in fashion (as in the Junya Wantanabe below), host great exhibitions and take on the funnest collaborations in the business.

Colette & Lomo collaboration

Colette & Opening Ceremony collaboration for Fashion's Night Out

Colette's collaboration with Chanel, see pics here

Love the Colette gallery, see my exhibition here

4/22/11

Top 30: Hussein Chalayan

F 2011

Above and below Hussein Chalayan. His collections always evoke avant-grade drama and tap into the border between fashion and art, truly the realm of costume. But they also create questions of wearability, which the designer resolves by proposing his clothes are for a future we will grow into.

S 2011

I like that most of his more complex pieces already look like artifacts, something from the past meeting the future, questioning where the human form meets the fashion form.

2006

S 2009

I was excited to see the ad above not only for the great aesthetic but because so many avant garde designers resist the commercial.

4/21/11

Top 30: McQueen

Above McQueen's graduating senior show from Central Saint Martins. For the collection he attached pages from fashion magazines, 1992.

Above Fall 2009 and below advertisement for F 2009

"I get my ideas out of my dreams… if you’re lucky enough to use something you see in a dream, it is purely original. It’s not in the world — it’s in your head. I think that is amazing."

— Alexander McQueen